Trilogy part III: The Sourdough Ultimatum

July 19th, 2011 | Posted by greg in Daily life... | Recipes

So you’ve got sourdough?

For the purist, die-hard sourdough bakers out there, you may just follow the below guideline without the suspiciously dangerous 2 grams of industrial yeast… simply using the sourdough you’ve prepared in part II of the trilogy.

For everyone else, you may chose to bake  with a little extra fresh yeast with your sourdough, and when I mean little, I really mean little. Using yeast isn’t criminal, it’s a natural cultivated living organism that happens to be the cousin of wild yeasts. Indeed, commercial yeast, poetically known as Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and the yeast found in sourdough Saccharomyces exiguus and its buddy Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis, are closely related.

If you were telling me about adding enzymes obtained from genetically modified corn, then I would have a problem. The reason why we use a little yeast is to adapt to the delicate local palate of Hong Kong. We use yeast to decrease the last fermentation time and thus the acidity. We get just the right balance in texture, crust and acidity we need for our 3 Michelin star French restaurant, Caprice.

From the sourdough you have nurtured, and based on 1kg of T65 flour (…or in plain English: bread flour) you will need:

  •  40% sourdough
  • 80% hydration (that would be water)
  • 2 to 2.5 % salt (I like sea salt)
  • ~0.3% fresh yeast (optional for the purist)

Knead all of this and store it for 18 hours in the fridge. The next day, leave it at room temperature for 3 long hours to allow the dough coming back to room temperature; shaping that fragile dough cold will tear and break its texture.

Scale, pre-shape if needed, shape and proof at room temperature for another good 3 hours or more depending on the room temperature.

Score, bake & eat!

 

We base most of our breads on this sourdough. For example for our grain loaf, we would mix rye, whole wheat, the grain mix and sourdough to obtain the balance we’re looking for.

The method we use is easy to operate in a very large operation like ours. Once you introduced a sourdough cycle in your operation, it just works naturally and the quality speaks for itself… and you’re not likely to go back to direct baking method anytime soon! We are currently testing other sourdough methods including one based on a blend of specific cultivated microorganism, it’s looking very interesting actually… keep posted!

Honestly, handling sourdough isn’t rocket science. It’s just beautiful!

Happy baking! :)

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  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1568302614 Cynthia Chan on Facebook

    I’ll definitely give this a try. My bread with sourdough run too sour. Wd love to see whether your formula will give me a surprise.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=124157437633360 Gregoire Michaud on Facebook

    When it goes too sour, try refreshing more often. Maybe it helps… I hope you’ll be successful in your baking adventures! :)

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1568302614 Cynthia Chan on Facebook

    Thank you.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=604840415 Jason Licker on Facebook

    I want to eat all them ….. By the way, when is Zimmers wedding?

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=124157437633360 Gregoire Michaud on Facebook

    When he comes back, let’s do it again… We’ll just pretend… ;)

  • http://tssaweber.com/WP Thomas Weber

    Your starter is 100% hydration and when you add 40% of it to your 80% hydration dough this gives a very wet dough overall. It would be fun to watch a video how you handle such wet dough in a commercial environment, if this is not a secret……

    Attached a 75% (overall) 1/2 baguette 36 hours retarded in the fridge.

    Thomas

    • http://gregoiremichaud.com Gregoire Michaud

      Wow! Nice baking you’ve got there!
      Good idea regarding the video, I will try to do that when I am back in HK. You’re right, our dough is very wet and even after 18 hours in the fridge it still very sticky. Every piece of bread is shaped by hand as machine could not handle such hydration – and we’re glad it is so! :)

  • Carl

    Hello Gregoire,
    I heard your interview on Stir the Pots website! Excellent interview!  I hope you can share some of your experience and maybe pictures from your trip to Switzerland!  I would love to hear how you make and bake rye breads.  Do you have a recipe for creating a rye sourdough?

    Carl

    • http://gregoiremichaud.com Gregoire Michaud

      Thanks Carl! :)
      Good suggestion regarding the rye sourdough. I will try to create a post for that once back in HK! :) Will share photos from Switzerland for sure!

  • Carl

    Whoops.  I read your intro. So, I guess recipes are not allowed here.  Oh well.

    • http://gregoiremichaud.com Gregoire Michaud

      Well… I posted quite a few recipes already :) lol
      But for rye sourdough, it is for sure a different issue and I’d love to share my experiences and recipe on that topic for sure! :)

  • Spencer

    Hi Gregoire,
    Those rolls in the bread basket look wonderful!  It makes me want to take one or two, slice it in half, add a slice of ham and cheese and eat away!

    Spencer

    • http://gregoiremichaud.com Gregoire Michaud

      Nice spotting! These are the baguettes we serve in our French restaurant Caprice! :) Ham and cheese are perfect in there!!

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